In the four-point system, a maximum of four penalty points can be assessed for any single defect and no linear meter can be assessed more than four points regardless of the number of defects within that piece.
DEFECT CLASSIFICATION
Defects/faults identified are appointed a number of points depending on the severity/length of the defect.
Defect size (mm) |
Points |
Up to 75mm | 1 point |
75mm > 150mm | 2 points |
150mm> 230mm | 3 points |
More than 230mm | 4 points |
Hole is evaluated point by size.
Holes and openings –
|
Points |
Up to 25mm | 2 points |
Over 25mm | 4 points |
POINT CALCULATION
Once the rolls are inspected, the Points per 100 square meters must be calculated to determine acceptability of the roll and/or shipment. The formulas for the calculations are shown below:
For an individual roll:
Points per 100 square meters = Total Points for the roll x 100000 / Inspected meters x Cuttable fabric width (mm)
Example: A fabric roll 100 meter long and 150cm wide contains following defects.
Defects |
Calculation |
Points |
7 defects up to 75mm length | 7 x 1 | 7 points |
4 defects from 75 to 150mm length | 4 x 2 | 8 points |
2 defects from 150 to 230mm length | 2 x 3 | 6 points |
1 defect over 230mm length | 1 x 4 | 4 points |
1 hole over 25mm length | 1 x 4 | 4 points |
Total defect points |
29Points |
|
Therefore,
Points / sq. m |
(28 x 100000) / (1500 x 100) = = 19 points |
Each defect should be counted as a separate defect even if the nature is the same and then based on the points allocated to each defect, total points should be calculated.
No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single defect.
No linear meter can contain more than 4 points, regardless of the number of defects within that yard or meter.
A continuous running defect which exceeds 23 cm should be assigned 4 points. In the event there is an additional defect within the same linear meter it should be considered as a separate defect and assigned defect point accordingly.
Any continuous defect (i.e., roll to roll shading, narrow or irregular width, creasing, uneven finish, barré, skew, etc.) should be assigned a maximum of 4 points for evermeter within a shipment.
Each full width defect should assign 4 points.
Obvious, noticeable and severe defects are to be assigned 4 points for each meter in which they occur, regardless of size.
Defects must be documented by type and point count on the inspection report
All defects must be marked with sticker at the location of defect or with a marker (sticker, swift tack, etc.) at selvedge edge
Fabric width must be checked a minimum of 3 times during inspection and documented on the inspection report
Actual roll length should be checked and documented on the inspection report
Fabric shipments exceeding following point totals are considered to be second quality and not acceptable. Fabric supplier is responsible for their fabric defect and to compensate for defects, 1 meter for every 8 points.
For below items classified for a point fabric, fabric supplier should compensate for all defective garment cutting panels or pieces.
Description |
Points allowed
|
Points allowed
|
Worsted/Woolens All Tailored Suiting Fabrics All Synthetics Filament Rayon Twills |
24 points per 100 sq. meters |
18 points per 100 sq. meters |
Corduroy/Velvet Flannel Woven’s with Elastan Dobby, Jacquard All Silk Basic Knits |
30 points per 100 sq. meters |
24 points per 100 sq. meters |
All Specialty Knits | 36 points per 100 sq. meters |
30 points per 100 sq. meters |
Linen Linen Blends Rayon Blends |
48 points per 100 sq. meters |
38 points per 100 sq. meters |
No individual roll should be considered first quality if the total point exceeds above defect points per 100 square meters.
Inspection Procedure under 4 points systems: